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Since GardenDirect.co.uk was created from 1996 it has very fast become one of the new profitable mail order retailers of garden plants. For the recent twelve years which GardenDirect.co.uk have been operating the business currently have two million customers that have been lured through genuine convenience, superior charges, great value for money and it’s always high quality gardening products. The business’ range is so different; www.gardendirect.co.uk is always valued for their weird and wonderful plant sorts which can be found continually inserted to said range, which furthermore includes garden hardware with extras that help customers that purchase the very very best for their garden. They sell beyond 130 million top quality flowers each year, the enormous majority matured in GardenDirect.co.uk’s own nurseries, all this allows one to be positive about the purchase and consider that what folk have ordered is of the highest standard.

The business also supply the choice of a catalogue for folk to browse through or maybe purchase from in some own time. The business stock the best group from old favourites to even more crazy breeds you yourself can often not notice in most garden stores; the catalogue might often also integrate a selection of seasonal offers as well. GardenDirect.co.uk stock various options of flowers that one might often acquire within GardenDirect.co.uk online shop. People can either go for a plug, ready or super seeding. Each of which are completely variant, plug plants, sold at 4-6cm tall in a plug of compost the above mentioned properties are the best superior value for money, you then have the taller ready shrub plants that are distributed at at 6-8cm high and being also more older can often be planted straight into one’s garden, last but not least you have super flower plants these are ideal for those who have less time to spare, sold at 9-11cm tall they additionally could be directly planted into one’s garden.

Along with flower plants www.GardenDirect.co.uk provide the accepted gardening products that you yourself can often acquire; the aforementioned consist of garden tools, garden sheds and gardening shears along with countless others. Shrubs and hedges can be hard to maintain, and finding the right tools for your gardening can be time consuming in garden centres, so visit the Garden Direct site for garden shears.

Traditionally, liner kits have presented many difficulties for the beginner pond gardener. Since every liner pond shape is different, pond gardeners must customize their own pond, ensure that it is level, and ensure that it does not have excessive wrinkling. A flexible preformed pond, on the other hand, is easy to install. The flexible preformed shell already has a pre-defined shape, yet it is easily transportable, since a typical folding kit comes in a box that can fit into your car truck (I.e. it is one-sixth the size of a regular preformed kit). Thus, installation involves merely removing the pond from the kit, unfolding it, digging a hole, and inserting the pond shell into the hole.

One common complaint of customers in the past has been that flexible pond shells have been difficult to unfold. To address this problem, as of January 2006, Algreen Products has introduced a new line of flexible preformed pond kits which are manufactured from a novel blend of rubber, nylon, and plastic. Using the new rubber-based composite, Algreen’s ponds are now extremely easy to unfold. Because of the flexibility offered by the rubber component, which is supplemented by the stiffness offered by the plastic component, the ponds are also many times more resistant to breakage and wear.

According to Melissa Mulligan, sales and marketing director at Algreen Products, “This new innovation makes our flexible ponds easier to unfold, more durable, and more resistant to wear and breakage this composite will revolutionize the preformed pond business.”

Algreen is currently incorporating the proprietary composite material into their line of folding pond shells and streamlets. The new pond shells and streamlets are being introduced in a black colour, and are currently available from www.buypond.com. The composite has also been introduced in their 144 gallon granite pond kits.

Each Algreen pond kit comes complete with:

• A rubber/plastic composite pond shell and streamlet (sizes detailed above).
• A SuperFlo submersible pump with a built-in pre-filter, telescopic riser, and a diverter.
• Fountain heads that allow you to set up a fountain in the middle of your pond.
• Tubing and clamps.
• 2 silk pond lilies.
• A 20-year manufacturer’s warranty on the pond/streamlet, and a 2-year manufacturer’s warranty on the pump.
• A free SuperGlo underwater light!

For more information about preformed ponds, please go to http://www.gardenSM.com.

Growing herbs for tea can be either a pleasant hobby or become a market crop offered to customers in a variety of ways, giving them the opportunity to add healthy variety to their beverage menu, whether warming up in the morning with a fresh-picked brew, or sipping garden-grown iced tea on a summer afternoon.

Humans and tea go back a long way. Black, green, oolong and the rarer white tea, which all come from an evergreen bush (Camellia sinensis) native to China and India, are popular worldwide. According to legend, tea drinking from this plant originated in China four to five thousand years ago, reaching Europe in the 1600s. Infusions of this plant are considered “real” tea. For the purposes of this article, I’ll casually call infusions of any appropriate plant material for beverage purposes, “tea.” Another couple of exotic plants out of Africa, Rooibos (pronounced roy-boss) and Honeybush, have recently entered the worldwide tea market. Both are often grown sustainably and can be found in Europe and North America through fair trade from their native land of South Africa.

But herbal tea, grown from a variety of herbs, is also a well-established tradition worldwide. Such herbal tea was in use in Europe long before black tea arrived. Drinking herbal infusions is believed to date into prehistoric times. Even animals have been known to put specific plants into small water-holding areas and seemingly wait for infusion before drinking.

Some herbs thrive in full sun, but others prefer partial sun or even shade. Needing only moderate watering, their soil calls for little or no fertilizer, and in fact should not be too rich as to cause excessive greenery that seems to dilute the aromatic oils. Each herb has its own special needs and specific plant parts that are used for tea and cooking (for tea, the leaves or flowers are most often used. However, roots, bark and berries are also harvested for herb tea). The specific plant parts and detailed growing instructions are usually described with the purchase of the plant or in any good herbal book.

(c) 2006 Barbara Adams

Barbara Adams
Author: Micro Eco-Farming: Prospering from Backyard to Small Acreage in Partnership with the Earth (New World Publishing)
http://www.MicroEcoFarming.com

As a home gardener, fall should be a very special time for you. Fall is the best season of the year for plant propagation, especially for home gardeners who do not have the luxury of intermittent mist. The technique that I am going to describe here can be equally effective for evergreens as well as many deciduous plants.

The old rule of thumb was to start doing hardwood cuttings of evergreens after you have experienced at least two hard freezes. After two hard freezes the plants are completely dormant.

However, based on my experience it is beneficial to start doing your evergreen cuttings earlier than that. So instead of doing “by the book” hardwood cuttings you’re actually working with semi-hardwood cuttings. The down side to starting your cuttings early is that they will have to be watered daily unless you experience rain showers. The up side is that they will start rooting sooner, and therefore are better rooted when you pull them out to transplant them.

To prepare an area in which to root cuttings you must first select a site. An area that is about 50% shaded will work great. Full sun will work, it just requires that you tend to the cuttings more often. Clear all grass or other vegetation from the area that you have selected. The size of the area is up to you. Realistically, you can fit about one cutting per square inch of bed area. You might need a little more area per cutting, it depends on how close you stick the cuttings in the sand.

Once you have an area cleared off all you have to do is build a wooden frame and lay it on the ground in the area that you cleared. Your frame is a simple as four 2 by 4’s or four 2 by 6’s nailed together at each corner. It will be open on the top and open on the bottom. Just lay it on the ground in the cleared area, and fill it with a coarse grade of sand.

This sand should be clean (no mud or weed seed), and much coarser than the sand used in a play box. Visit your local builders supply center and view each sand pile they have. They should have different grades varying from very fine to very coarse. You don’t want either. You want something a little more coarse than their medium grade. But then again it’s not rocket science, so don’t get all worked up trying to find just the right grade. Actually, bagged swimming pool filter sand also works and should be available at discount home centers.

Once your wooden frame is on the ground and filled with sand, you’re ready to start sticking cuttings. Wet the sand the day before you start, that will make it possible for you to make a slit in the sand that won’t fill right in. In this propagation box you can do all kinds of cuttings, but I would start with the evergreens first. Taxus, Junipers, and Arborvitae.

Make the cuttings about 4″ long and remove the needles from the bottom two thirds of the cuttings. Dip them in a rooting compound and stick them in the sand about an inch or so. Most garden centers sell rooting compounds. Just tell them that you are rooting hardwood cuttings of evergreens.

When you make the Arborvitae cuttings you can actually remove large branches from an Arborvitae and just tear them apart and get hundreds of cuttings from one branch. When you tear them apart that leaves a small heel on the bottom of the cutting. Leave this heel on. It represents a wounded area, and the cutting will produce more roots because of this wound.

Once the weather gets colder and you have experienced at least one good hard freeze, the deciduous plants should be dormant and will have dropped their leaves, and you can now propagate them. Just make cuttings about 4″ long, dip them in a rooting compound and stick them in the bed of sand. Not everything will root this way, but a lot of things will, and it takes little effort to find out what will work and what won’t.

This is a short list of just some of the things that root fine this way. Taxus, Juniper, Arborvitae, Japanese Holly, Blue Boy/Girl Holly, Boxwood, Cypress, Forsythia, Rose of Sharon, Sandcherry, Weigela, Red Twig Dogwood, Variegated Euonymus, Cotoneaster, Privet, and Viburnum.

Immediately after sticking the cuttings thoroughly soak the sand to make sure there are no air pockets around the cuttings. Keep the cuttings watered once or twice daily as long as the weather is warm. Once winter sets it you can stop watering, but if you get a warm dry spell, water during that time.

Start watering again in the spring and throughout out the summer. The cuttings should be rooted by late spring and you can cut back on the water, but don’t let them dry out to the point that they burn up.

By fall you can transplant them to a bed and grow them on for a year or two, or you can plant them in their permanent location. This technique takes 12 months, but it is simple and easy.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

Remember the old Calgon commercial”Take me away Calgon!” There’s only one thing that can take you away faster than a Calgon bath, and that’s a scented candle. Whether you want a breath of fresh spring air, or you want to transport yourself to a South Sea paradise minus the hassle of airport security, crowded, delayed flights and lost baggage, grab a scented candle, and travel wherever your imagination leads. Smell is a powerful sense, and you can use it to alter your mood within seconds with the flicker of a candle. In fact, why not keep a supply of scented candles in the bathroom when you don’t have time to luxuriate in the bathtub. Envelope yourself in fragrance while you shower, dry and blow-dry.

Close your eyes and think of each season: winter, spring, summer and fall each evoke special “scentual” memories. If it’s the dead of winter and you’ve already suffered through 73 days of snow cover, light a pia colada candle or a seaside candle and pop in your favorite Beach Boys CD. Inhale the scents of summer and forget about the cold for a few divine moments. Select a delicate floral candle or maybe a rain forest scent to remind you that April showers are right around the corner. If it’s 102 F in the shade, there’s nothing like a pine-scented candle to send a quick shiver up your back. Longing for fall? Light a pumpkin candle to evoke the Harvest Moon and the bounty of autumn. Whatever the occasion you’d like to recreate, it’s only a candle away. That’s the power of the sense of smell.

Holidays are incomplete without candles. If you think back to your favorite holiday gatherings, your mind will probably wander to your favorite scents. Think about your favorite Christmas tree, and you’re bound to remember the crisp smell of pine or cedar. The traditional holiday season from Thanksgiving to the New Year provides a natural cornucopia of fragrance. From pumpkin pie to peppermint ice cream to vanilla, the scents of the holiday season are everywhere.

Perhaps you use an artificial tree instead of a fresh-cut tree each year. Simulate the scent of a Frazier fir with candles. Artificial trees are getting closer to their natural kissing cousins with each passing season, but they remain “flat” without the accompanying scent. They just can’t bring the smell of Christmas into a home like the real thing. Light a few pine or cedar candles, and voilayou may never miss the genuine article.

Feel free to light several complementary scents at once. The seasons and the holidays are full of naturally occurring complementary fragrance. Each season contains a wealth of pleasing smell. The holiday season probably provides the most scent. Recreate the memories of Christmas past with gingerbread, vanilla, cinnamon, eggnog, clove, nutmeg, pine, peppermint candles. The scents don’t compete, because they occur naturally, and you’ve smelled them from infancy. If you can think of a memory, you can find a candle to recreate the mood.

Look around your home. You’ve probably created a room or two around a theme. Perhaps you’ve created an indoor sunroom. Bring the scents of the outdoors into your sunroom to add authenticity. Perhaps you’ve built a room around a color. Add lavender-scented candles to that lavender room, rose-scented candles to a pink room, new-mown grass-scented and rain forest candles to a green room, vanilla or gardenia to a white room, and seaside to a blue room.

Don’t forget the kitchen. Not only will you want to add scent, but you may want to eliminate odors as well. If you’ve created the perfect dinner for guests, the last thing you want is the smell of garlic, onion, or fish wafting through your home when they arrive. If the odor is overpowering, turn on the kitchen fan, spray a little odor neutralizer in the air, and light citrus-scented candles to replace cooking odors with the clean scent of fruit.

Cheaper than a trip to paradise, quicker than you can even say “banana bread,” you can light a candle. If your mind can imagine it, you can create it with scented candles for mere pennies!

About The Author

M J Plaster is a successful author who provides information on shopping online for http://www.candles-4-u.com/candle_holders.htm, http://www.candles-4-u.com/aromatherapy.htm, and http://www.candles-4-u.com/scented_candles.htm. M J Plaster has been a commercial freelance writer for almost two decades, most recently specializing in home and garden, the low-carb lifestyle, investing, and anything that defines la dolce vita.

If you have a taste for the unusual in gardening, and an appreciation of the exquisite, you may want to try your hand at growing the one flower that speaks of beauty, elegance and the exotic. Orchids, having more than 30,000 species, are the largest of all plant families in the world, and offer three different habitats for you to consider when choosing which to grow.



Lithophytic orchids grow in the cracks of rocks. Epiphytic orchids grow on other plants/vegetation, but they are not a parasite. This is the most common type of orchid grown indoors, and usually potted in a bark mix, to mimic its natural environment, which is normally a tropical region. Terrestrial orchids grow in the ground, in temperate regions. This means, if you want to have a crack at growing orchids outdoors, they will do best in southern states, although some hardier varieties will grow as far north as the central U.S.



The species of orchid you are growing, will pretty much dictate the pH of the growing medium, since there is such a wide range of materials. The type of medium will also dictate which kind of fertilizer you use. But whichever it is, remember that weakly/weekly is the rule, feeding your orchids at about the recommended strength, every 7-10 days. When preparing the bed for your orchids, be sure that it has good drainage by putting down either a layer of crushed rock, 15″ under the surface, or by loosening it up with some compost and peat moss.



While most people think of orchids as tropical plants, they actually grow in almost all regions of the world, except deserts and polar regions. That means they can exist in many different environments. For the most part, they do grow in areas that are moderately to heavily forested/foliated, so create your orchid bed in an area where they will get adequate sunshine, but not the very hot afternoon rays. In their native countries, dappled shade is often the rule, and even though they are started in greenhouses, thousands of miles away, the conditions they will tolerate, don’t change a lot. With the range of species available, you should be able to find dozens of types that will grow well in areas whose temperatures range from 40-90F.



Orchids are a plant that likes humidity, 40% at least. If you’re having a particularly dry summer, consider misting your orchids once or twice a week. Water according to your bedding medium, and the weather. Some varieties will require more moisture than others, but no orchid likes wet roots.



Some of the varieties that you can grow are:

• Cattleya Hybrids- These are the highly popular corsage flower
• Oncidiums- They grow well at higher altitudes
• Epidendrums- A good temperate climate orchid that will stand nearly full sun
• Plalaenopsis- Grows a long, arching spray of flowers in areas like Florida

About the Author

Johann Erickson is the owner of Online Discount Mart and TV Products 4 Less.